Ulaanbaatar Attractions

Ulaanbaatar can be found in a valley on the beautiful river Tuul, yet at first sight, in comparison to the countryside, Ulaanbaatar can seem a bleak and dirty city with crowded potholed streets. Look beneath the surface though, and you will discover that the hospitable and friendly attitude of Mongolians in the countryside can still be found in abundance amongst the Soviet era concrete structures.

Mongolia is widely considered to be a very safe country to visit, but tourists are recommended to avoid roaming the streets after 10pm whilst visiting Ulaanbaatar. At 11pm the bars and clubs kick out their patrons and the drunks hit the streets en masse. Pickpockets are a growing problem, especially around the train station and in the market places where they operate brazenly in plain sight. Be aware of the risk, but remember the same problems exist in many cities across the globe, a city such as Barcelona is a good comparison.

Ulaanbaatar is connected, by rail, to the Trans-Siberian network at the northern border and Chinese rail network in the south. Train carriages are frequently packed full of goods, accompanied by entrepreneurial Mongolian traders looking to import and export goods across the border.

Ulaanbaatar is the ideal base for excursions into the countryside, and just about everybody who visits Mongolia ends up spending time there. However, I frequently hear people refer to Mongolia's capital city as drab, boring, dirty, crowded; a 'typical soviet block city'.

Is this because the travellers attention is so strongly drawn out of the city and into the countryside? After all, there is great appeal to the nomadic lifestyle and freedom of living in the sparsely populated plains. The plains however are just that, sparsely populated. Over one third of Mongolia's inhabitants are living in the capital city, and to understand them we must surely learn something of the culture here.

So to lend a hand, here is a list of ten attractions I unearthered whilst researching this wonderful country. I hope it will inspire you to look beneath the skin of Ulaanbaatar, but if nothing else, it may provide you with a means to while away the hours, between trips out of the city.

1. Gandan (Gandantegchinlen) Monastery

Established in 1835, this Tibetan style monastery sits neatly on the hillside, to the northwest of central Ulaanbaatar. Three years after its founding, the monastery became established as the religious center of Sutra-Tantra Buddhism.

In 1938, the communist regime closed Gandan monastery, its doors would remain unopened for six long years. The socialist government was about to attempt eradication of religion from Mongolia. They set about systematically destroying all of the Buddhist monasteries, and slaughtered more than 10,000 lamas across the land.

Gandan monastery was allowed to reopen in 1944, operating with a skeleton staff. It was the only functioning monastery during the socialist regime, and one of only a handful that actually survived the Communist purge. During this time it was seen as a token of homage to traditional Mongolian culture and religious heritage.

Today, Gandan is the most important monastery in Mongolia with over 400 Buddhist monks. Gandan monastery consists of three temples and five centres of Buddhist learning. Inside the Avalokiteshvara temple resides a statue of Magjid Janraisig (the lord who looks in every direction). The statue is 26.5m tall and adorned with precious stones and gold leaf.

Temples:

Gandan temple was established in 1835, this is where the grand services take place.
Vajrapani temple was established in 1940 and daily services are peformed here.
Avalokiteshvara temple was built in 1912 containing the bejewelled statue of Magjid Janraisig (Boddhisattva Avalokiteshvara).

Colleges of Buddhist learning:

Dashchoimphel follows the tenets of Gunchen Jamyan Shadba.
Gungaachoiling follows the tenets of Banchen Sodnamdavgva.
Idgaachoinzinling follows the tenets of Sera Jebtsunba.
College of Medicine and Astrology
Jud Tantric College and Kalachakra Tantric College

Photographs can be taken around the monastery but not within the temples themselves. The monastery is open from 9am to 9pm daily with no entrance fee. The best photo opportunities are from 10am to midday when daily ceremonies begin.

2. Shopping at the Black Market

Naran Tuul Market aka the Black Market (Khar Zakh), can be found to the east of central Ulaanbaatar. The market offers incredibly low prices on just about anything you could ever want to buy. In summer, the market bustles as thousands of people gather to take advantage of the substantial savings. You can find yourself packed in, literally unable to move amongst the thoroughfares.

As with any location, drawing a large crowd and offering ample opportunity for distraction, the market is a hotspot for pickpockets and bag slashers. It is a good idea to leave any valuables in a safe or locker back at your hotel or hostel. In addition you should stay alert at all times, taking great care of your personal possessions. Try to keep money in a belt tied securely around your midriff, well away from small prying hands and roaming eyes.

With leather goods being particularly cheap, the Black Market is a great place to pick up an extremely good pair of riding boots. Fancy building a ger? Everything you need is here, from latticework right through to the felt and canvas coverings. You could then furnish your new home with the stoves, beds and furniture that are also available. Expect to pay about US$1000 for your fantastic, new, portable abode.

There is a 50 MNT entrance charge to gain entry to the market. It's worth the money!

3. Choijin Lama Temple

Built between 1904 and 1908, Choijin Lama Temple was originally occupied by Choijin Lama Luvsankhaidav. This monk was a brother to the ruler Bogd Khan, who rose to power following Mongolian independence from China. In the 1930's as Mongolia came under the influence of Communism, Buddhist temples were closed and Choijin Lama Temple was established as a museum.

The complex of four temples is elaborately decorated and many Buddhist scriptures and paintings are held for display. Throughout the temple grounds, statues depict Mongolian and Tibetan incarnations, of the various Buddhist deities.

The main temple contains a gilt statue of Buddha Sakyamuni as its centrepiece. To the right of this altar, a statue is dedicated to the former occupier, Choijin Lama Luvsankhaidav . On the left the embalmed corpse of Baldanchoimbolon lies at rest. Of particular interest to tourists, a collection of Tsam dance masks is held on display, for use in traditional Buddhist ceremonies.

The Zuu temple contains papier-mache scultures of depicting Buddha in the past, present and future. The temple walls are elaborately decorated, showing images of the 16 disciples of Buddha.

The Yidam temple was a private place of prayer. Unlike the other temples, Yidam was not open to the general public. It was used exclusively by Choijin Lama Luvsankhaidav and as its centrepiece features a gilt bronze statue of an Indian yogi.

The temple of Amugulang is also known as the Temple of Peace. It is dedicated to the first Mongolian reincarnation of Boghda Jevzundamba.

4. The Mongolian State Circus

Established in 1940 the Mongolian State Circus is best known for its gold medal winning contortionists. But the circus also accommodates many other spectacular acts, including travelling acrobats, gymnasts, jugglers, tightrope walkers, animal performers, clowns, contortionists and magicians. The circus conducted performances across the world, but are best seen in their own home, under the big blue dome in Ulaanbaatar.

5. Bogd Khan Winter Palace

Following Mongolia's independence from China, Jebtsundamba Khutughtu was proclaimed emperor or Bogd Khan. Of his four original residences, one remains in the south of Ulaanbaatar. Since Bogd Khan's death the winter palace has been preserved as a museum complex, consisting of seven summer prayer temples and the winter palace building.

The museum now contains possessions belonging to the late Bogd Khan including a ceremonial ger, a carriage, stuffed animals, silk tapestries, and other cultural artworks.

During the summer, the palace is open daily from 10am to 5pm. In winter it is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays. A handy written pamphlet is distributed at the entrance to the complex, and includes English language descriptions about the temples and main exhibits.

6. Sukhbaatar Square

The hero of the 1921 revolution, Damdin Sukhbaatar, declared Mongolia's final independence from the Chinese. The central square of Ulannbaatar now bears his name, and features a giant bronze statue of him astride his horse. Engraved upon the statue are the words he proclaimed at the time of independence. ' If we the whole people, unite in our common effort and common will, there will be nothing in the world that we cannot achieve, that we will not have learnt or failed to do.'

On a smaller scale to Red Square in Moscow and Tiananmen Square in China, Sukhbaatar Square is impressive none the less, offering a place of serenity in an often crowded and dirty city. At the north of the square, Government House has been built to face south, as do the doors of gers throughout the Mongolian steppes. Turning to face this direction, the visitor is treated to a view of the great open square, nestled amongst the cityscape. Beyond this we can also see the distant hills encircling the city.

Directly in front of Government House is a mausoleum, built in 1921, containing the remains of Sukhbaatar himself. Other landmarks of note around the square include the Palace of Culture (containing the National Modern Art Gallery), the State Opera and Ballet Theatre, the Golomt Bank, National Museum of Mongolian History and the Mongolian Stock Exchange.

7. Zaisan Hill Memorial

This enormous landmark, just outside the capital city, is a memorial to Soviet soldiers lost during World War 2. As Russia fought against Germany, Mongolia battled fiercely with Japan.

Conveniently situated just south of the capital, Zaisan Hill allows for wonderful views across the whole of Ulaanbaatar, with the Tuul River slowly meandering by, as well as out across the vast Mongolian countryside. Visitors beware, after being deposited at the car park, there is a steep climb up a long staircase to reach the memorial base.

The large circular artwork is covered with images of mutual friendship and pictures of achievements attained by the peoples of Mongolia and the USSR.

8. Natural History Museum

Founded in 1924, the Mongolian Natural History Museum is something of an artefact in its own right. Exhibits demonstrate the extraordinarily diverse range of flora and fauna that inhabit this vast unspoilt environment. Stuffed animals, birds and fish are on display throughout the halls of the museum, but there is an entire section dedicated to the humble camel on the second floor.

The museum contains a substantial number of dinosaur fossils from the Gobi desert, and can boast numerous fossilized eggs and bones. The highlight of the paleontological section though, would have to be the complete skeletons, of a 15m tall Tarbosaurus and an 8m tall duck-billed Saurolophus. Budding geologists may also be interested to learn that, the Museum is also home to a wonderful display of meteorite fragments.

9. Zanabazar Museum of Fine Art

This brightly coloured, blue building contains artwork from prehistory through to the early 20^th century. The museum building was built in 1905 by a Russian merchant and has previously been used as a Chinese bank, a Russian Red Army Soldiers Office, and a department store. Finally in 1966, the building was established as the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Art. So we can see, it is something of a historical work of art in itself.

The museums most significant holdings are of course, the works of Zanabazar, Mongolia's most revered artist. But the museum also features modern Mongolian artwork, depicting aspects of traditional Mongolian lifestyle, such as the Tsam dance masks and the famous paintings One Day in Mongolia and The Airag Feast by B. Sharav. Religious exhibits include scroll paintings (thangka) and various Buddhist statues.

Of the 10,000 objects in the museum collection, 500 are on display at any one time in the galleries of the second floor. Most of the captions are to be found in English, allowing visitors to read informative articles about Zanibazar and the many showpieces on display.

The museum is open from 9am to 6pm. English speaking guides are available. A guidebook is available for sale, but you get a free brochure when you purchase your ticket.

10. National Museum of Mongolian History

Ancient human remains, discovered at locations throughout Mongolia, have been said to date back over 800,000 years. For this reason Mongolia is widely believed to be one of the original cradles of human civilisation,

Founded in 1991, the National Museum of History presents exhibits from the early years of prehistory, right up until modern day. The exhibits are laid out sequentially in a series of halls, running from past to present.

A significant responsibility lies at the feet of the museum, they have been charged to preserve the cultural heritage of all Mongolian people, past and present.

The museum has a dedicated website at http://www.nationalmuseum.mn which provides further information about current displays and upcoming events.

The museum is open daily from 10am to 6pm. There is a US$15 photography charge.