In Egypt, as with many countries, it is easy to fall prey to that first impression. Culture shock may lead many people to stay safely tucked away within the protective outer walls of their landscaped accommodation. This is no surprise. Most people go on holiday for a break, some peace, the smallest opportunity to escape from the routines of life back home. If this is what you’re looking for, I heartily recommend one of the wonderful hotel or villa holidays you’ll find on offer. Here you can relax, swim in the pool and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. But please venture outside, because you may find that you come to embrace the madness.
If you’ve decided to stay in a guesthouse or hostel, you’ve unwittingly circumnavigated this conflict of interest. You have little choice but to explore and you may well appreciate a perk that you’ve just been granted: a slight reprieve from the famous Egyptian hassle.
Relaxation or Exploration: Choose Your Accommodation Wisely…
My journey in Egypt was also my first trip abroad. I travelled overland from Luxor to Hurghada, but due to somewhat unprecedented levels of naivety, I splurged out on my accommodation. I swear, on that very first day, when they saw me wondering down the path from a 5 star all inclusive hotel, they were so astounded by my stupidity that the touts allowed me to pass peacefully by and did not say a word.
I wondered thoughtfully along the banks of the Nile from midday until sundown trying to familiarise myself with the layout of the town. Despite skin so white that I must have been a blazing beacon, I was pretty much left to my own devices. I marvelled at the militia, standing in their turrets with their AK47’s . I chatted with the local men about why every building was apparently unfinished, but most importantly I learnt about caléche drivers and the famous’ Tuesday market’.
Now, most reasonable people would take this warning onboard and stay well clear, but I was fascinated…
Waiving down a caléche, I asked to be shown around the town. After agreeing a price and turning down additional incentives, it wasn’t long before the conversation sprung up… ‘You want to go to the market? There is a very big market today… only if you want to go…’
Never, Ever, Take a Trip to the Market…
The market manager expected a sale, the caléche driver expected a commission and I was expected to cover the costs. The market, spread haphazardly over two floors and existing within the confines these four walls, looked rather like ‘my father’s shop’.
Prices were set accordingly, factoring in the commission and operating on a sliding scale of ‘apparent visitor stupidity’. Confronted with a keen 18 year old in a 90’s holiday shirt, I can tell you the prices were less than affordable.
Despite this apparent setback, I was enjoying the subtle flavours of a refreshing tea whilst engaged in a discussion about a lovely Egyptian carpet. This could be mine for the paltry sum of £300.
I passed an hour, learnt something, cooled down and paid a fair price for my tea, job well done. But what would I do with this new alabaster vase…
Caléche, Felucca or Taxi: Escape is always within reach…
The next day dawned and perhaps due to my earlier experience, I was shocked by my reception at the hotel entrance. It seems I was expected this time…
It’s a well established fact, that you can’t take two steps in Luxor without somebody offering you a ride in a caléche, a felucca or a taxi. At first I was a little disconcerted as the cars went by. Instead of the all too familiar cry of ‘Taxi?’ I started to be greeted by the name of my hotel. It seemed to me, that a great number of people knew where I was staying and if they didn’t know yet, they soon would. Everywhere I went the name resounded.
Understandably the clamour and recognition can be quite intimidating. It seems to be the point where many people crumble, locking themselves away for the rest of their stay. I’m not saying I didn’t break; I did a couple of times. Jumping aboard a felucca, I sailed past the throng of people all the way to my hotel, which had a rather convenient berth.
Crossing over…
I left the confines of the hotel every day, taking trips to destinations within easy reach of Luxor. I’m not the kind to sit and relax by the pool, I get far too bored.
With a little perseverance your confidence grows, your suntan develops and you find yourself settling into the chaos. In response, the mayhem slowly abates and you become a less interesting target for the baying crowd. If you find yourself here, the realisation is amazing.
Stop and observe as a small group of tourists ventures boldly onto the promenade. Here they provide afternoon sport for scores of bored Egyptian men. Are you surprised when you chuckle to yourself? Wasn’t this you just a short while before?
You’ve crossed over to the dark side my friend. Your attitudes and perceptions have now changed and you have adapted well to this ‘new’ society. Excursions are now discussed at reasonable prices, conversation becomes the main purpose of every greeting and rides home are offered as an afterthought.
This was a lesson well learnt.
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[...] A Tour of Egypt and Crossing to the Dark Side [...]
[...] Andrew from Adventure Bimbling takes us to Egypt where he shares some tips on crossing over to the dark side and becoming comfortable wandering the streets of Luxor. [...]
Great post and all so true. But I must say, as a solo lass I recently visited Egypt, and while – yes it proved annoying to be so persistently viewed as but a “walking wallet” (though no more so than many other countries I’ve traveled in), nonetheless, I found it easy to get OTBP (off-the-b…) – e.g. a dear Nubian fellow sailed me ‘cross the Nile to seek a geocache on Elephantine Island; caléche driver (w/ firm direction from me) clip-clopped me to a true “local” deli for delish hummus and pigeon, and through the “local market” not the tourist market; took an 11 hr. bus through the night to Taba on the Israeli border; and after a couple nts. in Jerusalem – the best of all: an idyllic stay in Nuweiba on the Sinai (far less touristy that Dahab). In short, Egypt highly recommended for a solo Travelnlass!
Dyanne @TravelnLass recently posted..Random Photo Memory- Bali Bliss
I’m glad to see that you ventured further anf further afield and finally crossed over to the dark side. Great title, by the way and very perceptive. I have never been to Egypt and now is, unfortunately not a good time, but one day…
Hey Inka, thanks for your kind comments.
Your absolutely right about it not being a good time to visit. I was just watching it on the news (for what that’s worth).
Apparently the Sinai peninsular is quite stable, but I’m afraid my favourite attractions are close to Luxor and Cairo.
Hopefully they’ll still be close to Luxor and Cairo when this all dies down :-S
Andrew Murray recently posted..Vacationing Through Home Exchanges
[...] trip around the world and sharing their tips for travel. Some interesting recent posts include Touring Egypt and Crossing the Dark Side, Island of the Gods – The Attractions of Southern Bali, and Fuerteventura – The Perfect [...]
Love this! I relate to so much of it, and am glad to find that some first-time Egypt experiences are simply universal. I’ve recently digitized and published the journal pages of my first trip to Egypt, 25 years ago, and have been curious to see similarities/differences with other travelers today. I hope you will come check it out, and please leave a comment with your link back to this article. Thanks again for an enjoyable read.
Kymri / Mira Terra recently posted..Remembering Egypt – Part I
Thanks Guys,
I’ll enjoy reading your article this afternoon. Your right, it is interesting to draw comparisons over such a span of time!
very informative article! egypt’s been at the top of my to do list for quite some time!
Michelle recently posted..How to- Sydney- Australia on 25 a day
Thanks Michelle.
It was a wonderful place to visit. It opened my eyes…wide…
I’m so glad I read this… I thought I was imagining things in Luxor and Aswan – the caleche guys / sellers do seem to know a lot about you if you’re there for a few days… I was pestered continuously by one caleche guy in Aswan and one morning I walked out of my hotel room to find him in the corridor outside my room…
If I had a pound for every time I’ve said ‘la chukran’ I could have paid for my trip to Egypt!
Jonathan (@retrotraveller) recently posted..Palmyra – bride of the desert
Hi Jonathon, It’s great to meet you and thanks for the comment.
A friendly taxi driver told me that the information is readily passed around. He suggested it was a good basis for estimating wealth, with haggling then conducted accordingly. Quite clever really.
What was this guy doing outside your room? That would have freaked me out a bit…
I had a great time on my last trip to Egypt, but have never had a chance to get to Luxor. How did you like it? How did it compare to Cairo?
Thanks for the great blog, it’s a big help in planning my future adventures.
There were so many things to see within a short distance of the resort town. I’ve never known anywhere quite like it.
What a beautiful, helpful, informed post on a country I’ve always wanted to go to! I’ve been so interested ever since my art history class in college, but I’ve had friends who’ve said it’s not for the faint of heart. I can’t wait to go someday!
Abby recently posted..Why journalism snobs should love blogs
Abby, thank you. What can I say but I couldn’t have wished for a kinder comment. I really appreciate the sentiment
Andrew Murray recently posted..Touring Egypt and Crossing to the Dark Side
Hi Andrew, great blog! I do have to say though that i was expecting some horror stories or a more chaotic story,,,then again you probably feel the impact and chaos when in Egypt,,,would love to go there and see some pyramids and learn about them.
Hi Rommell and thank you,
It’s strange, the things that people expect from a location such as Egypt.
Horror and chaos? Maybe occasionally…but nahhh…
Don’t get me wrong when I first arrived it was a very intimidating experience. But, I have to say, I have found that to be the case in many equivalent tourist resorts….more so in Egypt but still…that was the initial attraction.
I think these horror stories arrise from cultural differences. A clash of local culture and, (a posssibly), misguided attempt to promote the typical western holiday experience.
Tourist resorts are, after all, marketed for the general populace. Locals have very little to say in it and unfortunately a great many holidaymakers go abroad to ‘let loose’.
I have to say I have visited some resorts and I have come away feeling very bad about the influence we put on the local populace. It is certainly not reflective of local culture.
Recently on a trip abroad, I asked where I could head out of town to meet real #…ish# people. The guy was in tears with happiness and despair.
He said:
“The English nation has always been good at colonising. Once it was by force and now it is by tourism. I grew up in this town before it was a resort and it no longer feels like my home. It is an English colony that, for me, now reflects the worse aspects of both our respective cultures.”
I stayed for a few days and I have to say, I agreed and left.
This common tourism experience plays into stereotypes and consequently leads to the ‘horror stories’ that we commonly hear.
That aside though, Egypt was an experience that I appreciate is not for everybody. I certainly suffered from culture shock and I appreciate that i learned an awful lot from the experience.
Andrew Murray recently posted..Touring Egypt and Crossing to the Dark Side
I’ve heard plenty of conflicting stories on Egypt. As a woman some of the stories downright scare me, but I must say that I’m intrigued. Can’t wait to see Egypt on our own…
Jill – Jack and Jill Travel The World recently posted..Nafplion Rooftop- Greece — Foto Friday
Hi and thank you for your commenting,
I have to say, like most destinations, I think a lot of the ‘horror stories’ come out of the mainstream tourist resorts. I got invited to a small village outside Luxor for a party, it was on the far side of the Nile away from other tourists and travellers. I had to make a judgement based on who was inviting me and he’d already been telling me about some of the shady things he got up to with other tourists :-/ I would have been reliant on him to get back across the Nile and, if things turned awry, help would have been far from hand. So I avoided that particular situation because of my gut feeling of impending trouble!
Travelling from Luxor to Hughada, I went by local buses. I have to say, we stopped at a few places en route and people outside the ‘tourist environment’ were extremely helpful and respectful. They seemed VERY surprised to see a westerner travelling through and everybody wanted to practice their English. It was a completely different experience.
I spent about 5 hours on the bus talking to a young lad who was studying English at university in Cairo. He thought the journey was fantastic and really wanted me to stop at his home town near Edfu. He made a point of avoiding the main tourist resorts and really wanted to talk about life in England and to teach me about the ‘authentic’ Egyptian lifestyle.
Thinking about it; this lad is the reason I try to learn languages before I travel anywhere.
Andrew Murray recently posted..A Proposed Bimble from KLIA to CNX
‘Caléche, caléche, felucca, you want taxi?’ AAARRGGHHH. It took a couple of days to be able to speak again to another human being when we returned from our first time in Egypt, such was the trauma. Despite that we’ve never laughed so much and the country is our favourite.
Shane recently posted..The Working Traveller Hits the Middle East
I certainly know that feeling Shane! I’m glad that you had such a great time
Andrew Murray recently posted..Island of the Gods – The Attractions of Southern Bali
i have been to Egypt, its a really cool place. but really hot
Thanks Zablon.
Your certainly right about the heat. I seem to remember the last time I was there (in July) temperature reached 45°C.
If you visit the Valley of the Kings, the tombs become like little ovens underneath the rock!
Andrew Murray recently posted..A Proposed Bimble from KLIA to CNX
I can totally relate, and I love the “crossing over” section.
But I also like to give advice to newcomers in order to cross over the dark side with me. Love Egypt!
I live in Cairo and I am the one who giggles now
Giulia recently posted..Unexpected Singapore – photo essay
Thanks Giulia!
I love Egypt too and really enjoyed writng this article. Fortunately, I first travelled there whilst the Red Sea resorts were still in there infancy and Egypt was recovering from the events of 1997. These were interesting times
I hope to go back with Laura at some point as she has sadly never been.
Bless her.
Andrew Murray recently posted..A Proposed Bimble from KLIA to CNX